Max Mumby / IndigoGetty Images
If rock and roll could cure the world, so could fashion, and Alessandro Michele might just have proved it. His latest men's clothing collection was & # 39; n Swatch& # 39; A tasty adventure of dazzling floral prints, pastel embroidery, and dress-over-pants worn indiscriminately (but very judiciously) by models across the entire gender spectrum. There were men in trousers, and Mary Janes, and a leopard print coat that was last seen on Alison Mosshart. There were women with shaved heads, slim scarves, and Amy Winehouse bouffants with the greased black eyeliner to match. There were boys in the crops and shredded jeans and soft, thin scarves from Kurt Cobain, George Harrison and Peter Frampton. And although Gucci campaigner Harry Styles did not see the front row, Jared Leto was sure, and he happily posed with fans outside the show, flashing peace signs and an outstretched tongue slightly like the Rolling Stones logo looked IRL.
In Michele's Gucci multiverse, violence has no place (remember when they replaced bullet patterns with lipsticks on a handbag?) And gender has no boundaries, which means toxic masculinity has no power. (And as Styles and Leto have proven in many tabloids, it won't do you nearly as much as a blanket-like vest and a giant handbag.) But although Gucci & # 39; radiating sexual appeal, it's also hazy and childish, as channeled into countless Disney collaborations (Donald Duck loafers, anyone?) and animal motifs, including a jumping bunny brooch on the opening look. There were also Peter Pan collars, a literal (and literary) nod to never growing up, and a new collaboration with Liberty London … as in the tranquil flowers best known to the babies of the rich.
Which brings us to the most unlikely, and possibly the most brilliant, icon of Gucci yet: Princess Charlotte. Among the rock stars and trap kings of the runway, it would be easy to see Michele's princess with a round sleeve as a Courtney Love tribute, and the music legend and the Gucci fragrance model deserve every altar to her name . But in Liberty's sweet floral fabrics and embroidered smuggling, the effect was less Hole and more Her Royal Highness, 4 years old.
While Megxit is raging and burning the world as we watch it live, global destruction does not appear to be part of Michele's path to power. Instead, these Gucci attire, worn on models of every gender, seems to want our & # 39; foresee a softer future, where Woodstock and Glastonbury's ideal of peace through parties is not just & # 39; is a possibility, but the only thing that can really save us. The one way we kick a soccer ball into a Liberty printed mini skirt is the most important way we evoke our anger and frustration. Here's the thing though: if Michele's vision only works for those who afford their #GucciGoals, is it a true utopia? Or is it, like the Monarchy itself, just a gilded cage?