One of the most viral moments of the fashion month – aside from J.Lo in Versace in the reconstruction of the Grammys dress from the neckline to here, which launched Google Images, was model Leon Dame running the runway at the Maison Margiela show in Paris. That was the step everyone was talking about: chaotic, bruised and slightly rushed. It went viral and Dame & # 39; s an extra special Instagram follower: Rihanna.
The man behind it was the manager of the movement, Pat Boguslawski, & # 39; a former model who has worked with Margiela since 2018. And while it got its share of laughter, it was at its core a performance that returned to a time of theater on the runway, something that John Galliano has recorded at his shows since his early days has. & # 39; If (this is supposed to be) & # 39; a fashion show, why are we watching & # 39; a street walk? & # 39; Boguslawski says of his philosophy. & # 39; There must be some kind of execution so we can see these characters. & # 39;
When super models rule the world, you can choose them with their signature gait. But when they were replaced by & # 39; a twist by & # 39; new faces & # 39; – without cost, easier to manage and unlikely to surpass the brands they stepped for – the art of track performance has begun to fade, replaced by an indescribable steal along the runway. . The breaks and twists in the middle of the aisle à la Thierry Mugler in the 1990s are over, or the acting of the early performances of Galliano and Alexander McQueen.
But this season, perhaps spurred on by series like attitude and RuPaul's Drag Race, the pendulum swung back to the camp. former Drag Race contestants Aquaria, Violet Chachki and Miss Fame became fashion celebrities while appearing in the spring of 2020. Drag Race– encouraging contestants to sell their achievements as much as they seem may have influenced dedicated fan Marc Jacobs, whose models smiled this season, tipped their hats, and in the case of Gigi Hadid, 39; a barefoot step in imaginary height heels.
Ariel Nicholson, the only model on Tomo Koizumi's show, made it up while getting in and out of seven Japanese polyester organza objects. As the audience walked away, armed with their phones, she entered the room – her movement was also coached by Boguslawski – and a posable character. It felt like something Drag Race mini-challenge during New York Fashion Week.
The ballroom community attitude depictions also left an indelible impression on the walkway: Paris fire Star and ballroom stalwart Willi Ninja coached Naomi Campbell and Iman during their hiking trails; attitude consultant José Xtravaganza worked with Joan Smalls and Kendall Jenner. The spirit of attitude truly came alive during the debut program of Christopher John Rogers, where models rushed down the runway – once to apply a fine wrist to the photographers' foreheads – and to the flow of their garments have shown.
In a fashion show packed with shows, this kind of theater helps brands stand out. And of all the touching fashion moments, Rihanna was perhaps the most ambitious performance of all. Her blowout of Savage x Fenty was almost directly reminiscent of 90-year-old Mugler, with elaborate sets, performances by Halsey and Normani, and a series of studded models making full use of the theater space.
Normani and a group of dancers sang in a section of the widely-watched show to Sean Paul's "Get Busy." Thanks to the frenetic choreography of Parris Goebel, who worked with Janet Jackson and Justin Bieber, Rihanna's designs have never looked better. The integration of performances into a show is ultimately about selling not only a fantasy, but also more prosaic. And on that score, Rihanna scored ten s across the entire standings.
This article appears in the February 2020 issue of ELLE.
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Top Photo: A View from the Christopher John Rogers Spring Collection in the Spring of 2020. Christopher John Rogers Video Credit: Hudson Brown